Hemming Jeans

Hemming Jeans - Fast & Easy!

Let’s face it, everyone wears jeans (who doesn’t love Denim Fabric?). Young, old and especially anyone in between wear them for just about any occasion. Jeans are typically manufactured in very long lengths so shortening them is a common necessity. Surprisingly, jeans are one of the easiest of pants to hem. Why anyone would pay $20-$30 to have this fast and easy task done for them is mind boggling. It really is that simple. No hand stitching is involved and within an hour the task is complete.

Step 1

The first step is to determine the desired length. If making that determination on yourself there a few ways that can be done. The easiest way is to take a pair of jeans you already know are the correct length and measure the inseam of both legs. Using that measurement, mark each inseam of the pants to be shortened with either a pin, fabric pen or chalk. Measure the distance from the new mark to the current hem. Using that measurement turn up the hem of each leg and pin in place.

Try on the jeans to make sure the hem length is where you want it. Look to be sure the hem on both legs are the same length and that the hem is parallel to the ground all the way around both legs. Make adjustments where necessary – this is a trial and error sort of task. Some people prefer to have the back portion of the jeans a bit longer to accommodate a high heel. If that is the case, make the appropriate adjustment. Once the final length is determined and securely pinned in place, steam press the hem to get a strong and clearly visible crease.

hemmingStep 2

The next step is mark the hem allowance and trim away the excess fabric. Using the pressed hemline as your guide, mark a cutting line 1 1/8 inches above the hemline using a chalk pen, fabric pen or tailors chalk. Since the line will never show, even a regular pen will do.

Step 3

Using the marked cutting line, trim away the excess.

Step 4

Now using the pressed hem crease as your guide fold up the raw edge to the crease line. Fold up once more to complete the hem and pin in place.

Step 5

Next, stitch the hem close to the folded edge. Denim is a very heavy and thick fabric so be sure to use a size 14/90 to 18/120 size needle. Also, use a thread designed for denim and try to select a color to match the old hem.

Start the stitching close to the inseam seamline where is less likely to show. Since a double turned hem creates a rather thick layer at the side and inseam seamlines, use a clearance plate to level off the presser foot. This will facilitate the foot’s ability to sew over the thick hump of fabric and keep the stitches uniform. And, that’s all there is to it.

This article uses the content from the original article on BurdaStyle.com

February 28, 2014 — Shopify API
How to Create a French Seam

Sewing Sheer Fabric: How to Create a French Seam

I’ve always been drawn to the ethereal look and feel of transparent textiles, be it organza, chiffon, or a delicate rayon. They hold so much potential, from dreamy eveningwear with floating trains to sophisticated blouses layered over camisoles. But, admittedly, it takes a bold soul to bring them to a sewing machine.

Since the final product is, well, see-through, every part of your construction must be flawless. No pressure! Fortunately, there’s a go-to technique that will get you beautiful results inside and out: French seams. It’s basically a seam with a casing on the inside to hide any raw edges. In fact, sometimes I even use this tactic on fabrics that aren’t sheer, just to get a professional finish.

How to do it:

Step 1: Factor in extra seam allowance for your pattern. Generally, this means you will double your standard seam allowance, then add ⅛” of an inch to that. Yes, it takes slightly more of your precious fabric, but is totally worth it.

Step 2: Face the wrong sides AKA the insides of your fabric pieces together and sew your standard seam allowance. This will look, at first, as if the seam is on the outside of the garment.

Step 3: Trim off any seam excess, but don’t get closer than ¼” to the sewing line.

Step 4: Iron the right sides AKA the outside of your fabric pieces together.

Step 5: Sew a second seam encasing the original.

Viola! You have a flawless closure to any unsightly interior seams, making sheer fabrics a breeze to work with. Bonus: This trick is especially helpful for any fabric with the tendency to fray like crazy.

For a visual, check out this super helpful Youtube tutorial.

Take a look at these gorgeous high-end items on the market now that utilize this technique:

Sheer Fabric

October 03, 2013 — Shopify API
easy-tricks-for-beautiful Knits

Two Easy Tricks for Beautiful Knit Fabric Hems

When it comes to sewing with knit fabric, you either love it or hate it. Fortunately, I’m in the first camp. In fact, I learned to sew in high school using stretch fabric that I would drape and pin on myself to make my homecoming and prom dresses. And I have to say—despite my lack of formal training—the results were pretty fantastic. I loved how forgiving it was in the fit department, if I made my gown a wee bit too small no one would be the wiser, not even myself. Anything woven, on the other hand, would have told a different (probably Frankenstein-y) story.

One of the first steps to conquering the pliable textile is to work with its unruly behavior. Often, it’s a battle to hem a knit dress, but luckily when you stop fighting it, the outcome is quite beautiful. This particular trick works best with a serger, but will also work with a regular sewing machine. While hemming, simply pull the fabric lightly and you will create a lovely lettuce leaf effect that’s perfect for scarves or whimsical frocks. Try it with a strip of fabric to see what I mean. Note: The harder you pull the more intricate the curled edges will be, but don’t pull so hard you break your needle!

Not a fan of the effect and hoping for a streamlined finish? Don’t fret, there’s a simple solution for that, too. Hit up your nearest gifty retailer and stock up on tissue paper. Next time you’re about to face off with a slippery neckline or armhole all you have to do is place a sheet under the fabric. It’s seriously miraculous. Bye-bye wonky uneven edging!

Soon, you’ll fall in love with that stretch as much as I have! If you’re looking for inspiring ways to test out your skills, first take a look at these fab fabric options, then turn to the queen of knits: Diane von Furstenberg. Here are a few of my recent favorites from her collection:

easy-tricks-for-beautiful Knits

Swoon-worthy, right?

September 10, 2013 — Shopify API